Climbing Cheats – Mechanical Edition

Alright, they’re not cheats; none of these tips involve strapping a hidden motor to your bike and quietly whizzing your way to the top…

But they are a set of directions that will make climbing feel like cheating compared to how much you struggled before.


Suspension

Is your shock set up like it should be? No, I don’t mean just flicking the lockout switch – although if you’re not using this and struggling to climb, it should be the first thing you change! You don’t have to be the world’s best home mechanic or a tech wizard to set up a shock; google your frame manufacturer’s advised setting for that shock (and if that isn’t an option, revert it to the ‘factory’ option). It’s just turning dials and setting pressures so there’s no harm in repeatedly adjusting things until they feel right. Rule of thumb is that the more air in the shock the stiffer it is, but that doesn’t mean whack it up to max pressure and leave it there; it won’t be good for the shock and will completely obliterate ride quality. The better option is to make sure you’re factoring your riding weight into shock calculations and fit an appropriate spring / pump it to a suitable pressure. This means taking your water bottles, backpack, pads, tools, helmet etc into account and setting you shock and fork weights based off of this number. Bear in mind that for really rocky, technical climbs a bit of inefficiency is a fair trade for grip, so sometimes it’s better not to lock out the suspension and keep traction as you’re scrabbling over roots and rocks. In this case, having a shock set to your weight is essential in making sure that traction is there without needless pedal-bob wasting your energy.

Drivetrain

Is your drivetrain working how it should? You don’t need to spend thousands upgrading to XTR DI2, but is everything free moving and efficiently? There’s a reason the top road racers are riding ceramic bearings on immaculate, perfectly-aligned drivetrains. Mountain bikes get dirty; even when the trails aren’t muddy there’s inevitable dust which gets everywhere and builds up. Ensuring that yor drivetrain remains as free from this as possible keeps it running much easier – jockey wheels are a prime area for grime build up. If you find during cleaning that the teeth are mashed, it could be time to upgrade to a metal counterpart, giving you the option for easier pedalling and a shiny new anodised addition to your build! Use a suitable lubricant on the chain to make sure everything is as slick as possible; WD40 is great for shifting rust but not as a consistent lubricant, so make sure you have some dedicated chain lube in stock. Ensure that your gears are as crisp as possible by using the twist adjustment on the shifter itself because a poorly-functioning drivetrain costs energy, speed, and money as things wear out at a faster rate than necessary. Fitting an oval chainring, designed to get more power with additional consistency out of each rotation, could be a worthwhile upgrade but is one of the more expensive options on the list.

Bearings

It’s worth noting that it’s not just your drivetrain which needs maintaining. Check your pedal bearings, as a stiff pedal (especially if you have adjustable resistance) can make a massive difference, as does a notchy bottom bracket affecting the perceived consistency of pedal strokes. Likewise, wheels with notchy bearings not only ruin the feel of the trail, but could actually be slowing you down; get that buttery smooth new-bike feel and you might just find that new-bike enthusiasm emerges.

Wheels and Tyres

Upgrading from 26” to 29” might be a bit extreme (and impossible, on most frames) but getting tyre choice and pressure perfected can make climbing a breeze. Step one is making sure the wheels are as true as possible, as a buckled wheel is throwing your energy all over the track. Similarly, make sure tyres are seated properly and relatively ‘straight’ because you’d be amazed how many wheels look buckled because the tyre isn’t a straight fit; the more linear your contact points with the trail are, the more efficiently your energy is transferred through them. Tyre choice is completely personal preference, and an expensive pursuit if you keep trying different configurations without success. If climbing is your issue, consider two questions: are your tyres set for the conditions, and how much rolling resistance is there? If you’re trying to sprint up cross country climbs on a 2.5” super tacky wet tyre when the ground is just a bit damp, you’re carrying a lot of weight and throwing a lot of unnecessary rubber down. I’m not saying to fit up some gravel-esque slicks, but consider if a marginally narrower tyre with a tread that has less resistance could do the same job. If changing tyres aren’t a choice, consider the pressures. Too low, and that same issue of dragging an inordinate amount of rubber over the ground slows you down. Too high and the wheels will spin quickly, but offer no grip on the climbs. Again, this is personal preference but it could be worth experimenting by adding 3-5 additional PSI, testing it on the trail, and adjusting it accordingly.

Saddle

Are you sitting comfortably? Everyone knows the tiptoe-test for seat height, but have you considered the position of your seat in relation to the rear wheel? If you find yourself struggling for grip when things get steep, consider moving your seat; most will have two lines signalling the amount of available adjustment. Not only is this upgrade easy, it’s completely free! If sliding the seat on your existing post doesn’t do the job, consider a layback post which automatically pushes the saddle roughly an inch over the back of the seat tube, putting your seated weight over the rear wheel. However, the trade-off here is that you’re most efficient when directly over the pedals so there has to be a balance between being able to leverage your weight when pedalling, and keeping the rear wheel planted; nobody wants an ideal riding position that goes to waste as the wheel skids inefficiently over the ground rather than thrusting you forwards, but there’s also a reason that ‘cool’ laid-back chopper look never caught on in the Tour De France! If you’re feeling flush, dropper posts are a brilliant, but expensive, option for getting seat height perfect by allowing you to adjust on the fly so that no momentum is lost between differing terrain.

Finishing Kit

So obvious it goes without saying; if you’re uncomfortable, you won’t perform at your best. Make sure your contact points with the bike are as good as possible. If you’re using flat pedals, are the pins long enough and are you in receptive footwear which grips these pins effectively. If you’re maxed out on flats, consider the clip-in option as a means of transferring as much of your power through the pedals. Without going into a lecture on ergonomics, make sure your grips are in a comfortable position. As a cost-saving exercise, starting by simply adjusting the angle of your bars is the best bet, bringing in the option of cutting them down or buying a wider / different rise set later on. It’s worth considering width as a slightly wider bar (whilst still remaining comfortable) opens up your chest and makes breathing, particularly on the heaviest of uphill sections, that bit easier than if you’re shoulders are slumped forwards gripping narrow bars. Similarly, whilst a stem’s length influences handling agility, the rise of the stem can help keep you comfortable. Finally, makes sure you’ve got a comfortable grip with some give because the majority of us squeeze the bars, bracing our upper body when really putting the power down through the pedals. The softer the grips, the more comfortable this often-involuntary response to climbing becomes as you are left to focus on building up lactic acid in your legs rather than through an unnecessary death grip on the bars.

Try these tips and let me know how you get on. Best case scenario: you gain climbing abilities that you never knew you had from some relatively cheap and time-effective pointers. Worst case: you’re still not as quick as you’d hoped on the climbs, but your bike is mechanically spot-on with all aspects dialled in exactly how you want them, with maybe a few new shiny bits too!

Manitou Mattoc Pro - Light Weights and Low Prices

These are popping up for sub-£200 at the moment which makes them a tempting alternative to your Rockshox Pike or Fox 36 forks for little more than what their competitors would cost for a simple service.

Ridden for six months on a mixture of cross country to heavy enduro, the Mattocs have been brilliant. Yes, the reverse brace and matte black / red graphics aren't for everyone; but most forks get treated to a decal kit anyway!

The criticisms, to get them out of the way, are relatively straightforward. Having three adjusters on the same stanchion, although mechanically prudent, isn't the most user-friendly interface - especially when the adjusters in question are rather small and very smooth, so not exactly compatible with mud and gloves! While we're on the dials, the overhanging nature of the largest red adjuster meant that the very first crash on these forks took a hefty chunk out of the soft alloy and made a mess of the otherwise snazzy red anodizing. It's hardly something to write home about, crashing your bike and being upset that it shows, but competitors like Rockshox and Fox have this adjuster much more recessed into the crown to reduce the chance of damage. If you like your bikes silent, these might not be the fork for you as there is noticeable noise as fluids work their way around the circuits - but as someone who's had pikes with a creaky CSU in previously, this is no deal breaker!

However, these are details which are hardly worth discounting such a massive potential cost saving. Where it really counts, on the trail itself, how do they fare? The answer isn't straight forward. They're one of the lightest 160mm forks out there at under 1.9kgs, and their 34mm stanchions put them more on par with a Fox 34 than the 160-180mm Fox 36 option. Honestly, when you're really pushing this does show; but when you're not smashing them down the toughest terrain, you're not hefting around unnecessary 36mm stanchions either. As a 110kg rider when kitted up, these forks were really quite impressive with a massive amount of mud clearance too. Another great little detail is the hexlock axle which not only feels safe as houses, but seems to add much more rigidity than a QR alternative - but you do need to keep a 6mm allen key on you at all times (and yes, I found out the hard way!)

Without wading into the technical side which is available in numerous other reviews, they're infinitely adjustable and have a brilliant feel. When it comes to the trail side of things, they are absolutely seamless in keeping the front end planted on any climb, soaking up any terrain on the descents, but still supportive enough to pop off lips and take the bigger hits. In short, it's a fork of few compromises as it remains composed in every aspect, never throwing up any harsh or unpredictable feedback.

If there's a fork to throw off Manitou's 'budget build' reputation, it's this. But what else would you expect from a fork which shares so much of its engineering with the Dorado? It's not your everyday set-and-forget suspension this... it offers absolutely sublime trail riding if you're willing to put the time in; you will get it set just-so, and it will inevitably show massive results when you do. Much like the Rocky Mountain Altitude I paired it with, it's not for smashing big mountain terrain (although it'll have a damn good go if you do). It's at home on a refined, lightweight build where speed and control are key but, when that 160mm of travel is occasionally needed, it can sweep in seamlessly and get it done. Understated brand, underappreciated performance, and certainly an under-priced fork.

Rocky Mountain Altitude: New heights, same old RM reliability

Six months in the Rocky Mountain Altitude has become a firm feature on a lot of our rides. Although ours is a more custom build, the picture above shows the $6900 full-on Rally spec bike which weighs in at around 30 pounds.

First impression of the frame is that it's absolutely gorgeous. The deep metallic purple really isn't done justice in the photos and, paired with the eye-catching fluorescent yellow decals, is a definite winner. This framesjust flows from end to end as though it's one stunning piece of seamless carbon. The metal tab on the chainstay is a small but useful detail which prevents that flash paintjob getting unnecessary scratches too.

The technical side of this frame, and in particular the 'Ride-9' chip, could be the subject of more than one article. The main takeaway, however, is that the two clever little chips which house the top shock mount offer a variety of different configurations which allow you to tune the frame itself to exactly what you want. Personally, I've left it in one setting as the terrain this bike has been on is a constant mixed bag of brutal climbs and flowing trails inevitably punctuated by steep descents and jump lines. I could see this being really useful, however, if your use for the bike is doing local XC loops for fitness, but then you change the chip configuration for an uplift day on steeper, rockier ground. While we're on the technical side, the high 67 degree head angle does more than provide a gnarly DH-aesthetic; it translates really well when the terrain gets steep by compensating slightly for that 150mm rear end.

The 428mm chainstay pairs beautifully with that rear travel to provide snappy handling that has you charging faster and faster into each corner. Friends with the newer Altitude reported exactly the same feeling; you just point and shoot with this frame and it follows exactly where you want to go. Obviously different configurations with the Ride-9 chip can reduce or enhance this side of the frame, but it has genuinely been one of the easiest handling bikes I've ridden. When things get tight and technical, simply turning the bars is translated through that burly front end to the short rear triangle, and it switches direction like nothing else.

The inevitable cost of this agility is that, when the trail gets really steep and fast, there isn't a vast amount of support. Suddenly that flickable rear end is bouncing of rocks and roots and a few extra millimetres of insurance frame length would come in handy. This isn't aided by the Fox rear shock either which, despite a useful bar-mounted lockout switch, actually feels underpowered for the frame and left us wishing for a coil or more supple option that didn't blow through the travel as quickly and instead provided a supportive, consistent feel to match the insane turning ability of the Altitude. However, buying a frame like the Altitude to throw it down steep, rocky chutes relentlessly on uplift days misses the point; it's like buying a downhill frame for your commute to work. The Altitude is supposed to be fun, making the flatter trails faster and flowing singletrack glide by easier.

Would it be my first choice for enduro racing? Maybe not, although I can think of more than a few courses where the incredible grip and handling, combined with how efficiently it climbs and eats up singletrack, could come in really handy. Does it have a purpose? If you like your rides social and your smiles wide, absolutely.

It's fun, fast and ridiculously good looking - but if you're looking for a gravity sled that you can occasionally pedal back to the top, you'll probably find yourself parting cash for another frame. And while there's no harm in that, you might just find your eye is still drawn to the Altitude's sleek lines, gorgeous metallic paint job, and playful feel.

Back to Back to Back: Enve DH Carbon vs Pro Tharsis DI2 Carbon vs Spank Spike Vibrocore Handlebars.

1 – Visuals: The first impression you, or anyone else, will get of the bars and the most subjective part of this review. The Enve DH bars have that classic matte-and-white understated styling that just goes with everything and brings a superbike feel to any build. The Pro bars have a murdered-out all black look which looks at home on any bike but doesn’t scream style. The Spank, the only alloy bar on test, comes in a variety of colours so can highlight any custom build or retain a subtle OEM colour-coded look.

2 – Price: The sticking point for most of us mere mortals who pay to ride, rather than the other way round! 
At £90 the Spank bars come in at the lowest price, followed by the Pro Tharsis at £120 and the Enve in excess of £160.

3 – Feel: How does it all translate on the trail? 

The Pro bars are exactly as you’d expect: light and incredibly stiff. The bonus of it being one of the few bars with recesses for DI2 cables is commendable, but even on a trail bike their rigidity was to the point of discomfort; for smashing out timed runs their trail feedback was excellent, but they were hardly a comfortable companion for long days in the saddle.

Enve are one of those brands where the reputation invariably precedes all else and that rep is, well... enviable. There’s a subtlety to these where they feed back exactly what’s going on downstairs without the irritating ‘buzz’ in a lot of other handlebars which invariably saps energy from your arms, loosens your grip and is all-round unpleasant.

The real surprise of the test, however, was the Spank offering. I’m always wary of a gimmick, as all bikers need to be with the new standards inundating the market, but it was genuinely excellent. Granted, it pays a weight penalty compared to the skinnier carbon counterparts on test, but circa 100g for the incredible feel these bars provide is a trade I’ll snatch with both hands. The aforementioned irritating chatter is refined by the clever foam insert within the bars and fed back as a much more manageable rumble. These bars don’t detach you from the trail, but rather report it back in comfortable doses in a manner only the very best suspension setups usually can. It’s no silver bullet but, paired with the same well-set suspension and grips tested with all of these bars, made a noticeable difference both on long rocky descents and general trail feel; it’s akin to replacing a dodgy front-end bearing you never knew you had.

The Rankings:

No prizes for guessing the Spank Spike Vibrocore comes out on top. Like when dropper posts first came into play, there’s a feel to this bar that we’ll happily pay the weight penalty and wonder how we ever coped before. The vast choice of colours and low price are an added bonus to make this bar a no-brainer for my next build.

Enve DH comes a second when all three factors come into account. However, they remain the undisputed kings of performance and would still be the bar I reach for if I was counting grams and milliseconds on a world cup build. Weekend warriors and penny-pinchers need not apply!

The Pro Tharsis should feel no shame in being bested by the two other bars on test. If the engineers called me a fat, lazy hypocrite who needed to work on his fitness rather than blame a set of carbon handlebars I’d have to agree. However, for a pricey bar it lacks the ‘bling’ factor of Enve or the performance-enhancing feel from the Spank bars. It’s a tidy bar, make no mistake, with the built in DI2 option keeping any cockpit clean. On a personal level, the trail feedback and high price would make it a no from me as an upgrade, but they probably wouldn’t be the first component to change if they came with a factory build. 

Cane Creek Inline Coil

Cane Creek Inline… three words to send a shiver down your spine.

At least, they were, before the coil offering emerged. Where its predecessor offered sublime damping but a maintenance schedule which would make world cup mechanics wince, this coil counterpart promises all of the performance without the faff.

First up, it weighs in 250-300g above an air counterpart with wiggle room depending on dimensions and spring weight; the ‘lightweight’ in-house Cane Creek offering is surprisingly good at under half the price of a Fox SLS spring. Talking of price… a brand new shock under £350 is great value and certainly provides better performance than a comparable air shock.

But the main thing; how does it ride?

Pretty damn well.

Paired with an Intense Carbine 29er it handled the descents with ease. It’s common knowledge that coil provides a more consistent feel than air due to a spring providing a completely linear relationship between force and travel. The Inline coil never feels outgunned, providing more of a grippy feel that tracks the ground than being ‘poppy’ like a comparative air shock. Personally, I went from a Vorsprung tuned Monarch and the Inline genuinely felt like an upgrade in most departments; it’s heavier and perhaps doesn’t feedback the tiny nuances in surfaces as well as the (frankly, sublime) Vorsprung Monarch. However, the confidence-inducing consistency of the Inline had me pushing harder and harder to find the limits of the bike’s capabilities without a fear of suddenly blowing through the travel on one misjudged landing or poor decision. Likewise, the ‘trail’ capabilities of the inline are brilliant as it tracks the surface and provides seemingly endless grip as your rear tyre is magnetised to the floor. Some articles I’ve read raise fears about the lack of additional chambers like on the CCDB coil which prevent overheating. As a 110kg rider who likes to think that they push their kit pretty hard, I never felt a thing. I daresay on the windiest of alpine descents you might feel some difference, but unless your riding back-to-back Megavalanches most weekends you’ll have no complaints from the Inline on UK trails.

The really outstanding feature of this shock though, is when you point the bike uphill. No leaning, no standing, just sitting comfortably is required as the top of the trail pulls into view much quicker than usual. When the lever is flicked across even the most descent-hungry, high-travel monster becomes a dutiful cross country steed to help shuttle you on to the next fun bit. Weirdly enough, when a shock tracks the ground as well as this, the uphills become a big part of the fun because usual frustrations like pedal-bob or skipping strokes and bouncing over obstacles become a distant memory. The inline holds its composure so well it almost feels like cheating… although those seconds can be quickly lost if one forgets to switch the lever back for a descent. But a seasoned biker wouldn’t be daft enough to do that would they?

We’d better move hastily on to a verdict!

It’s not an air shock, and it doesn’t try to be: it’s undeniably heavier and does require £50-odd on a new spring each time you lose or gain a significant amount of weight.

But that argument has circulated since air and coil shocks have been in production. The real benefit is in the feel: if you like your climbs and aren’t fazed by a bit of extra weight it’s sublime. Despite what people might tell you about its air-sprung predecessor, it is incredibly consistent as it devours descents and hurtles up the climbs. It came to a straight choice: Vorsprung Monarch or Cane Creek Inline. I chose the Inline. In my experience, that’s the highest praise there is; I could’ve written that at the beginning and saved you five minutes!

Giant Reign Carbon 2017 (£Various)

Two years old now, this is one of many carbon enduro machines flooding the second hand market. With a lineage back to 2015, there’s some pedigree in this frame – Giant’s flagship enduro bike has faced little change in four years, a feat almost unheard of in these uncertain times!

I should add that mine’s a completely custom build, so I’m reviewing the frame as I experienced it with two differing shocks; the Vivid RC2 coil and Monarch RC3 (Vorsprung tuned) that I replaced it with.

Visually; the frame looks good. The lines are clean, the rear triangle being metallic means it’s easily replaced, and I did a full bearing change at home with relative ease. The paint finish is slightly disappointing; there’s significant lacquer peel, rubbed decals and chips which aren’t often found on bikes within this price range. The odd mark’s to be expected, but there is a sense that Giant are making these by the thousands, not crafting each one. Yes, I know that’s how they’re made (as indeed most brands are) but this Reign is the first bike (especially at this price range) that I’ve experienced with a ‘cheap’ feel to its visual finish.

More importantly, though, how does it ride? In a word: excellent. There’s a snappy feel coming out of corners and over jumps that could trick you into thinking you’re riding a shorter travel bike. Compared to the mega I’ve raved about before, there’s a more ‘upright’ feel that encourages pedalling; there’s not a sense of holding on and ploughing the track, more of a playful feel that has you popping off small rocks and lips. When things do get serious, however, it still reigns supreme as it soaks up the hits and remains unfazed by steep terrain. There is a more ‘forward’ feel to the riding position (which could be tweaked with different stems etc) but not an uncomfortable one. Put simply, rather than hanging off the back wheel and trying to plough the terrain, there was a sense of the reign pushing you forward into the driver’s seat to find the best lines. It never felt like I was heading out of the front door, but it keeps you honest when things get steep and rough.

I found it to be a comparable whippet on the climbs, a feat aided massively by switching from the Vivid RC2 to a Monarch. As should be the case with bikes in this class, there’s little sense of energy being wasted through pedal bob – each sweaty stroke rotates a wheel. Sitting atop the bike, and not too far over the rear wheel, keeps traction on the steep climbs and never poses an issue when you point it downward. As a predominantly ‘dh’ rider who likes to pedal too, this feels like a brilliant companion – tuned for the descents but light (and efficient) enough to really make up ground on the climbs too. And for some extra good news, Giant is, well, giant in the UK; a huge range of UK retailers stock replacement parts for absolutely any eventuality.

So… a verdict. This isn’t the rave review the 2015 Mega received, but it is coming from a position of more experience, of higher expectations, of a higher price range. On the one hand the Giant is a great companion that supports you on the descents and compliments you on the climbs. On the other, it’s an expensive frameset that somehow manages to feel cheap – a carbon front end and metal rear triangle at a price point competing with full-carbon offerings. In short, it’s a machine I’d deter nobody from buying because it’s fast, comfortable, and easily maintained. However, in a class stacked with outstanding machines, this remains merely adequate. I own one, I ride one quite happily, but I’d have no qualms about exchanging it for something else. Perhaps it's simply too efficient; it’s a bike that takes serious abuse and (thanks to its paint finish) has the scars to prove it, but it stoically remains a tool, rather than my pride and joy.